Dinner and a Movie in St. Helena: Cameo Cinema and Go Fish

I love going to the Cameo Cinema in St. Helena. It is such a charming little theater with a healthy dose of character. Being so quaint, it fits right in on St. Helena Highway (the main street through St. Helena), and I appreciate their efforts to mix up the movies a bit, considering they only have one screen. They tend to choose dramas and Oscar-buzz-worthy films, sometimes a few weeks or a month after they come out in other theaters. It's hit or miss whether you want to see what they happen to be playing any given week, but when you find one you like you have to go quick because they rotate the movie out each week. They also occasionally play some special indie and art films, or broadcast performances like opera and ballet, plus occasionally they work in an extra children's movie on the weekends.

It's possible that my appreciation for this theater is because it is really the only one in Napa Valley. There is actually a larger, multi-screen one in Napa (the Napa Cinedome) but its quality is so awful and atmosphere so dismal, that you're really better off not even going at all. The only other large, multi-plex theaters are located in Fairfield and Santa Rosa.

However, even if there were other theaters around, I think I would have a soft-spot for the Cameo... It is small, cozy -- not too many seats, they all have a good view (no stadium seating though), and there are nice love-seat style two-seaters in the back, perfect for a date. Plus they have good snacks and refreshments. My gf had been wanting to see Black Swan -- and we are both fans of Darren Aronofsky -- and it happens to be playing this week at the Cameo, so it seemed like an opportune time for a date! (to be honest, I would have preferred seeing True Grit, but it was playing last week when she was in NYC).

I won't say much about the film here... I don't even know what there is to say. I can say it's definitely not Aronofsky's best work. I guess I was sort of left scratching my head. But not for long, because we had also made a dinner reservation at Go Fish, just down the street on the southern outskirts of St. Helena.

Go Fish is a seafood restaurant owned by Cindy Pawlcyn, who is best known for her Mustards Grill restaurant right off of 29 in the Oakville area, although she also runs "Cindy's Backstreet Kitchen" right behind the Cameo theater. I've never tried Cindy's Backstreet Kitchen, but my gf (and her family) and I have been big fans of Mustards for a long time, and we had never tried Go Fish. Add to that that she likes sushi -- which is what Go Fish is known for -- and it seemed like a good fit [not as much for me -- I don't like sushi because I can't stand the seaweed. But they also have hot fish dishes, which I'm a fan of]

This restaurant does not hold a candle to Pawlcyn's Mustards restaurant. Whereas Mustards has a very cozy, casual vibe, the atmosphere at Go Fish is rather sterile. We liked the little cushioned alcove we got to sit at, it was very comfortable and was a nice setup. But the open spaciousness, uninteresting decor, and stark white lighting just feel too corporate and impersonal.

The waiter was a friendly enough guy, and was attentive without being overbearing. The food was hit or miss -- we had gone there because my girlfriend is a big fan of sushi (I am not because I can't stand the seaweed, so I appreciated that there were other options on the menu including hot fish dishes which were the main draw for me). My girlfriend ordered the "lobster roll" sushi roll, a special for the evening with tempura shrimp, crab salad, tobiko, avocado, and meat from half a lobster tail on top (not cheap at $33, though). I ordered the crispy duck salad followed by a Sole Almondine (sole in brown butter with toasted almonds.)

The crispy duck salad (with frisee, toasted pistachios, currants, and a generous portion of duck) was delicious and my gf enjoyed her sushi roll well enough (I took a bite and didn't really like it because I couldn't discern any of the different flavors). However, my sole almondine was awful. The freshness seemed okay, and the cooking/texture was fine, but it was WAY too salty. So salty that I couldn't even eat it. I ended up sending it back to the kitchen (this is the first time in my entire life that I've ever done this at a restaurant) and getting some fried calamari instead, which was good -- definitely fresh and tender and cooked right, but the inclusion of fried olives plus pine nuts, currants, and toasted garlic slivers which just sort of sat under the calamari was strange, it just didn't really work. I think I've been spoiled by the calamari just up the street at Market, which is much better.

We considered wine but the list was way too pricey and they charge $15 corkage (unlike Market up the street) so we didn't bother.

I'm glad we gave it a try, and I appreciate the accommodating service and the no-problems fix of the dish I sent back, but I probably won't return here... unless I have a guest who is really craving sushi (although there are still 2 Japanese/Sushi places I need to try in downtown Napa)

Downtown Joe's Brewpub

Visited Downtown Joe's today, a brewery, restaurant, and bar in downtown Napa. Maybe this place should be called "Downtown Dicks" because they certainly weren't very welcoming in my first ever visit to this establishment. I showed up at about 5:55, paused to take a photo outside, then walked in the door and up to the counter -- wasn't exactly a rocking place, but it was also around 6 pm on a weeknight, so I don't know if it gets more exciting or not. The crowd was mixed, but definitely in favor of the gray-haired gentlemen camp.

I walked up to the bar, where I saw a late-night menu and happy hour menu specials menu (good until 6 pm) which I started perusing. The bartender said nothing to me, did not even acknowledge me. An older guy walks in, sits down next to me, and is immediately chatted up and served by the bartender, who then finally asks what I want to get (after checking my ID -- I guess my 20 or 30 gray hairs just didn't hold a candle to the sea of them around me.) He says "What can I get for ya? And do you want something to eat? Happy hour just ended." and with that he removes the happy hour menu that I was looking at. I mean, was that the tactic all along... ignore me until the clock strikes 6:00 (which it was, on the dot, when he did this... but it wasn't when I walked in the door) just to save a few bucks? Bad move -- extremely poor taste and rude. I've worked in a bar, and I can tell you: you just don't remove a menu that was there and available when the person came to the bar, who you just ignored for several minutes, and then say "too bad, you just missed it."

The irony is that the tourist you're serving might never come back, or will return once in a blue moon. I am a local that could patronize your establishment weekly... but now I'm not so inclined to do so.

I ordered the "Tantric IPA" a strong Indian Pale Ale. So I start drinking my pale ale (which is okay, pretty standard high-gravity, high-ABV IPA, not bad) and perusing the menu for something affordable. I suppose I'd gotten spoiled by the delicious $1.75 tacos and $8 tri-tip BBQ sandwiches I recently rounded up in Calistoga, because I simply didn't feel like paying the $12 they charge for their burgers. I was originally going to get calamari (at the $5 happy hour price -- a good deal) but that jumps to $12 when happy hour is over. I settled on the pulled pork sliders with cole slaw (also $5 at happy hour; $8.50 normal price)

An older man, the one who came in and sat next to me at the bar, starts to strike up a conversation. I ask where he's visiting from, he says Omaha and is enjoying getting away from the cold for a bit. Talks about the 9 day road trip he has been on to Kansas or Oklahoma (I forget which) then to Vegas and up to here. Then things get interesting. Sort of out of the blue, he tells me he's a conspiracy theorist.

"Have you seen the movie Conspiracy Theory?"

"Yep," he chuckles.

"Like, what kind of conspiracies? Political?" I query.

"Well, there's an organization that is running the media, spreading lies and deceiving everyone... they pretty much rule the world and pull the strings in secrecy."

"Oh, you mean like the Illuminati."

"Exactly. And they've been around for a long time, founded in 1776 by the Rothchild family, who own more than half the wealth in the world and are tied in with Satanism..."

Now, I've heard some of this stuff, bits and pieces. I find conspiracy theories fascinating. I'm skeptical enough that I don't get carried away in them, yet not close-minded enough to think that we don't truly get deceived and manipulated in certain ways.

He goes on to explain his beliefs, founded in becoming a Born-Again Christian in his 30s (he's now 63) after living a worldly life of sex, booze, and partying in his early years. Now he believes Catholics are paganists, Obama was born in Kenya, the Bushes have blood ties to the Rothschilds, and the End Times are upon us. He goes on to explain some of his revered celebrities in this arena (particularly Texe Marrs, Dr. Monteith, and Alex Jones' "infowars") and that he has compiled a book that lays it all out, but just a private book he gives to friends and such, not a published one. Also said he had been recently interviewed on Dr. Monteith's radio show.

Told me his name at the end of the conversation (which lasted two beers) and it sounded like "John Burke", but after thinking about it later I figure he probably actually said "John Birch" (haha, sorry... not buying that one, buddy)

Why do I mention all this? Because it just goes to show you never know what kind of people you'll run into in Napa, because they come from all over! Plus, there really wasn't much else noteworthy with Downtown Joe's... typical brewpub environment, with the same fare but above-average prices, and an unfriendly service.

Oh, but for my second beer -- it was an "Old Magnolia" nitro-pulled stout, which was more or less incredibly good: smooth and creamy, with that trademark toastiness of a stout but less biting and pronounced. It almost had an Asian feel to it, a flavor like toasted sesame and misoyaki; a little toasty, a littly salty, a little sweet, and a little tangy. Probably one of the best stouts I've ever had, actually.

And the conversation was definitely one of the most fascinating ones I've ever had with a stranger at a bar. That and the stout made the stop-in worthwhile after all.

Napa Valley Casino

Today was another nice day -- yet another perfect opportunity for either wine tasting or an outdoor activity. But I've felt a little under the weather. I was considering trying a new winery -- there is a new tasting room that went up a stone's throw from my apartment -- but I had a little too much wine with dinner last night (ironically, neither was from Napa; one was an "ancient vines" zinfandel from Cline Cellars in Sonoma, but sourced in Oakley; followed by some after-dinner tayberry wine from Silverside Farm and Winery in Victoria, British Columbia.)

Since I got a late start to the day and couldn't handle any more wine (but I'm pretty sure I will tomorrow!), I decided to head down to Napa Valley Casino and play some poker. Technically, this "casino" is in American Canyon, off of Hwy. 29 just south of Napa (but not quite in Vallejo). There's really not a whole lot to see in American Canyon -- it's a sort of suburban, residential area between Vallejo and Napa, with some chain big-box stores and fast-food restaurants. Not entirely exciting. And technically, it's not even really a "casino" -- Las Vegas this is not (or even Reno or Tahoe)! There are no flashing lights, special entertainment, chaotic sounds, or any of the other typical "casino" accoutrements. That's because it's actually more of a "cardhouse"; in California, it is illegal for casinos to operate in the typical sense, where the casino makes its money primarily from games where you bet against the house (with the odds always at least slightly in their favor) -- you will find no craps, slot machines, or traditional blackjack at Napa Valley Casino. Those games can only be found in the true casinos which are only allowed on American Indian grounds in California.

Having said that, the Napa Valley Casino could be a destination for some tourists (and locals alike). Why? Because -- as they note on their website -- what else is there to do in Napa in the evenings?? Once the wineries close, you have a few options: restaurants (usually good, but after that... then what?); a couple pubs/bars, but they are scarce and often not so exciting; or some entertainment, but that is just as rare -- the Napa Opera House and Uptown Theatre has some cool performances, but only on certain dates. The Cinedome theater for movies in Napa is horrible -- possibly the worst movie theater I've ever been to (not exaggerating), and the only other real option is the Cameo Cinema upvalley in St. Helena... great little theater, but only one screen so you the only choice is to see whatever they happen to be showing that night.

Now, gambling is not for everyone. I am aware of that. And this casino is not flash and glamor and dazzling lights like you might get in Vegas. But if you do like to do a little gambling, this place is the local spot to do so -- and to be honest, it always feels a little safer and more comfortable to me than other cardhouses I have been to in California. It's pretty small and "cozy", with only about 10 tables in there, three to six of which will always have some variant of poker going (mostly $3-$6 limit Texas Hold'Em, but also no-limit hold'em, often an Omaha table, and sometimes $4-$8 hold'em). They also offer pai gow, three card poker, and a variant of blackjack (with slightly better odds because you are not actually playing against the casino). They are open 24/7, 365 days a year and located about 10-15 minutes' drive south of downtown Napa, so it's always an option when there really isn't another option... or if you are just craving some card playing.

They also serve free dinners at around 7:00-8:00 pm, and I don't know where they get the food from, but it is actually pretty good! So, tonight I decided to stick around for that, and had a nice homemade beef stew with tender meat and vegetables served with soft polenta. Sometimes they have prime rib or chicken or tilapia with capers.

I walked in and plunked down $60 for chips, and a few hours later I walked out with $540. Combine this with the free and tasty dinner, and you can't beat that for a spur-of-the-moment evening of leisurely card playing!

Quadrantid Stargazing at Berryessa

I made it a mission to go out in the dead of the night tonight and go stargazing, so long as the sky was clear. And it was!

Now, Napa Valley itself is pretty good for seeing the night sky... it does get nice and dark here, being pretty much rural and agricultural with small towns (which are few and far between). The biggest, baddest fireball I ever saw streak across the sky was a random occurrence while driving home one night on Silverado Trail.

However, even in the valley there is a little bit of light pollution (from...? Napa? Vallejo? Wineries? I'm not quite sure), so to really get an eyeful of stars, I like to wind my way northeast up to the hills around Lake Berryessa. Lake Berryessa is a large man-made reservoir in Napa County, created by a dam which provides water and hydroelectric power. The lake is also a popular recreation area for boaters, etc.

So... why tonight? Well, right now is smack dab in the throes of one of the best annual meteor showers, the Quadrantids. I did not realize this until recently purchasing a glow-in-the-dark star chart calendar which marks all of the meteor showers on it. This one is less well-known than others like the Leonids, probably because winter weather is not conducive to stargazing.

In fact, this was somewhat true tonight, unbeknownst to me. It was crystal clear in Napa, but after winding up the jagged mountain roads toward Berryessa, there was suddenly long patches of dense fog. Perhaps this was caused by the lake itself, combined with the extra-cold (for these parts) temperatures -- it dropped down to 28 degrees tonight!

When we got to Berryessa itself, we nestled the car into a little parking cove on the side of the road and pointed it toward the Big Dipper (near the source of the meteors) and just watched. It was too cold to get out, but the sky was beautiful and the isolation was pretty serene (I've never seen so few cars on the road around heere -- we saw a total of 5 on the journey there and back). We only saw a handful of shooting stars before the fog started rolling in and obscuring things. So we headed north to come back down the road into Rutherford, and there is a smaller lake there with some parking and there was no fog there. Saw a few more shooting stars, for a total of about a dozen, and then decided it was time to head home.

But the moral of the story is... stargazing is definitely one fun activity to do here on a clear night! Especially if you can wind up the roads off the beaten path a little bit, into the mountains.